![]() ![]() ![]() This is where the importance of planning plays a role – especially when painting large projects like hordes of zombies, packs of orcs, or ranks of warriors of both good and evil. This may require cutting, filing, and gluing to assemble your miniature. Preparationīefore the real painting begins you need to prepare your miniatures for the project. Along with top-quality products, we’ve played a committed role in supporting the hobby and gaming community through events, charity, and classes for the past 14 years. The Army Painter is a brand you can trust to always deliver the highest quality paints and innovative hobby accessories. Over time, we have developed a full range of products to help you assemble, paint, and shade your models. From bare pewter, resin, and plastic to a beautiful tabletop standard – fast and easily. ![]() But all of that time at the hobby desk is time not spent at the gaming table! The Army Painter’s mission is to win back those hours at the hobby desk by creating products that will bring your miniat ures to life. The Army Painter founders have fielded over 30 fully painted armies, the product of countless hours of work. Together they are long-standing veterans of the wargaming and hobby industry. If you can get them to behave and stay in place (which might be a challenge by itself), you'd need more layers to build the opacity.The Army Painter is the brainchild of Bo Penstoft and Jonas Færing. I suspect it would be more difficult to do this with the AP or Citadel washes because they're much thinner. (Is this supposed to work? I don't know but I think it did.) When painting the TMM, I used Brown Wash for the mid-shadows on the gold metals and Steel Wash on the mid-shadows of the steel/silver metals. For example, see the TMM on my painted version of 03867: Aletheia Edair, Duelist: Since they're thicker (and Reaper MSP 9324 Steel Wash is thicker than the Brown Wash), you can use them for other tasks. However, the Reaper washes win on versatility. You could get similar behavior by using a paint wash or by thinning the Reaper wash but these aren't as quick or beginner-friendly. It's not surprising people recommend these. If you want a ready-made wash without having to worry about thinning paint (or the wash), the AP and Citadel washes win, hands down. I believe the Citadel wash looks the best out of the three. Perhaps wicking (except for the worst pools) isn't appropriate for the AP wash (especially since the bottled Strong Tone quick shade is descended from the AP quick shade tins, which are intended for dipping miniatures). The AP wash doesn't appear to be as dark in the crevices as the Citadel wash but that may be a side effect of the wicking. Brown Wash appears lighter on the palette but I don't see a significant difference in the picture.īoth the Army Painter and Citadel washes flow into the crevices and settle there, although some paint is still left on top. It is also not as soft a wash, so it doesn't flow into the crevices of the figure as well. The wicking is not guaranteed to have been done equally.Īs seen on the palette (third row of wells), Reaper MSP Brown Wash, Army Painter Strong Tone Quick Shade, and Citadel Agrax Earthshade:Ĭompared to the other two, Reaper Brown Wash is thicker (or, at least, my bottle is) than the other two. The washes were applied on top and pools were wicked away. The eyes for each mini were painted in using clear brights so I could tell them apart. The minis are basecoated in Reaper MSP 09143 Yellowed Ivory and their integrated bases with Reaper MSP Bones 09432 Desert Sand. From left to right: Reaper MSP 09254 Brown Wash, Citadel Agrax Earthshade, Army Painter Strong Tone Quickshade ![]()
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